Before I start, I just want to say this was my third visit to Prague but this time it was a first solo trip to Prague.
My objectives for this trip can be categorized into 4 things:
1- Leave the map in the apartment and explore Praha the way it should be, that is being lost.
2- Explore Praha surrounding, such as Cesky Krumlov and Kutna Hora, which I was not able to do in my previous trips because of our infant daughter and her strict eating and sleeping time.
3- Travel with a set budget and still enjoy all the traditional cuisine that Praha has to offer.
4- Only mean of travel is public transportation (no taxi and no shuttle, hence budget conscientious)
Some Travel Information
Date: August 29 to September 4, 2009.
Airline: Air Canada connected through Munich
Apartment: Studio apartment located in between Jewish Quarter and Namesty Republiky provided by www.prestigeapartments.cz
Price: 45 Euro per night booked 2 months in advance
Main Communication: BlackBerry Bold with Vodafone Pre-paid SIM card
Main payment options: Visa for gifts and ATMs for petty cash to pay for public transportation and meals.
First, when I arrived, the first thing I bought was the Pre-paid SIM card from the Vodafone Kiosk which is located just as you exiting the airport after picking up your luggage. Within the vicinity of this Vodafone kiosk, you will also find 4 ATMs and 2 other kiosks, one is for the airport shuttle such Cedaz/Taxi and the other is the Praha public transportation kiosk where you can buy bus/tram/subway tickets. After, paying for the pre-paid Sim card, getting some cash out of the ATM and bought a 75 min worth of tram/subway ticket, I ventured into the Old Town by hopping on the 119 bus which took me to Subway station Dejvicka then off to Staromestska, which is the fourth stops from Dejvicka. From Staromestska, it took me about 10 min walk to the apartment by cutting through the Jewish quarter and up to Dhloua st. After gettng all the instruction and the keys from the agent, I ventured to the Billa located behind the Namesty Republiky subway station and got all the necessity goods to accommodate my 6 days in Praha. All the information that I have mentioned above has been gratefully provided by the previous and local TAs on this board, thank you very much. Your insightful information enable me to execute my travel plan to the utmost detail.
My first impression of Praha is that I can see the global recession is having an effect on the local economy. Lots of restaurants I passed by are empty, closed down or for sale. The elbow to elbow with tourists are no longer an issue because there seems to be less tourists that I can see from previous visits. Because of this, you can really see the sad faces in the sale people who working in the Garnet, souvenir and other stores.
In this trip by putting away the map and relying on the public transportation, I was able to to explore Praha like a born again Praha visitor. Rather than taking the funicular to Petrin Hill, I walked up, not once but twice and reverse direction and each time I deviate course a little bitto see what I can find that is new. Once of my favourite things to do in Praha is to stop for an espresso at a cafe located just mid way up to the Petrin Hill. I can honestly say I can sit there for hours and hours if given the opportunity to do so.
Due to limited of time, I was able to visit Cesky Krumlov for a day trip. I booked 2 days before departing to Praha through the Student Agency website. The subway ride from Namesty Republiky station to Andel station was easy and locating the bus stop was even easier because there are signs everywhere to direct you to the yellow bus. The bus ride was not bad given it was 3 hrs there and 3 hrs back. Cappuccino, newspaper, movie and washroom are provided for your comfort. The reason it took 3 hrs is because it does a milk run to 3 other stops on the way. If it was express then I can see it should take no longer than 2 hrs to get to Cesky Krumlov. My impression of Cesky Krumlov is jaw-dropping awe. What a beauty. The town is small so walking should not be an issue. I went there on Monday by design because I knew the Castle was closed so that means less tourists and I was right. Not sure if I was right for the right reason or it is also recession that is hitting places like C.K. as well. Nevertheless, Cesky Krumlov was great and I was glad I went. 4 hours of touring was enough for me and the saving from hiring a tour alowed me to sit back and had a nice lunch at the Two Mary%26#39;s. I definitely recommend for others to explore Cesky Kkrumlov if time permits. I took the 7 AM bus there and 3 PM bus back to Praha.
The next day, I visited Kutna Hora by taking the 7 AM train and got there just after 8 AM. The direction into town from the Train station was so obvious and easy to follow. Kutna Hora is a nice little town that is on a nice hill. I visited the bone church and the old town but forgo the silver mine because of some TAs advices, thank you. before I head back to Praha I had lunch at Dacicky pub. Great little pub with lost of locals hanging out. Kutna Hora is definitely a day tripper and given 4 hours slot I allocated, it was just enough to explore what I needed to explore in Kutna Hora.
FYI, in both Cesky Krumlov and Kutna Hora, I did not rely on a map to get me around. Both of these towns are small and I always use churches(being the highest building in the town) as point of direction to guide me.
Now that my legs are tired from walking all over Cesky and Kutna, I decided to spend my next 3 days in Praha and explore Praha through the Metro and walking. One day I spent an entire day using the tram system which took me to 4 corners of Praha. By paying the 26 ckc per trip, this allow me more than enough time to spend 1 hour on each tram that I took. I took the famous tram 22, 1, 25, 26, 12 and 3.
The other two days I spent just walking around and rather head to the main obvious roads, I deviate to small street where cars are too big to go through. By doing this, I was able to find gift shops that is not so obvious to the eyes or tourist trap. I was also able to find traditional Czech pubs were local always hang out during lunch and after work.
Being budget conscientious, I ate in Saturday, Sunday, bought lunch in Cesjy on Monday but ate in for dinner, bought lunch in Kutna but ate in for dinner, made lunch for Wednesday and Friday but ate out for dinner for both days. For made lunches, I bought traditional Czech ingredients such as cheese, klobasa, Prague Ham and sauerkraut to make sandwhiches. When I eat out in Praha and not Cesky or Kutna, I always go to U Medvico restaurant which is of Nadroni Trida boulevard. I always ordered Goulash for started and 1/2 duck as entre. Goulash, 1/2 duck and a small beer always cost me 119+290+25=434 ckc.
Tip, before I order anything I always look for the fine prints in the menu for cover charge, condiment charge and bread charge. Since most of my meals come with dumplings and lots of it, I always first decline bread and watch and make sure they made a mark on your tab which can be found on the table. Calculate in your head before the bill come as to what you should expect for absolute term. My bill always come out as expected and of course being a Canadian, one of the best travelers in the world, I tip them 20%. why 20%? thank you being honest and not trying to rip off an obvious tourist and thank you for your hospitality. Also, before leaving for Praha, I did some research and it tells me several things: never pay more than 30 ckc for a small pint of beer or 60 ckc for a large pint of beer; Goulash that cost more than 160 ckc should have a nugget of gold in it so if it doesn%26#39;t then move on to another restaurant; 1/2 duck that costing more than 300 ckc should not be salivated over. With that in mind, I indulged.
For gifts and souvenirs, I bought 2 bottles of Italian wine from Vino Di Vino. I also bought some Arts and Crafts for my little daughter from a Kiosks located in the Old Town.
Tip, I use Visa to pay for gifts at a reputable stores or restaurants but sue ATM to withdraw petty cash to pay for dinner, snack, coffee, and souvenirs from kiosks. I never exchange money through those places that advertise 0 commission. I must advise that in early on Wednesday when I begin my walk through the Old Town, I was approached by a gentleman asking me if I needed to change money. The scam is so obvious so I declined. I was able to get this gentleman on film so will post the video clip once I extract the file. He is not Czech but Indianish or Pakistanny look. He was wearing a powder blue pants and jacket, an outfit right out of Saturday Night Fever, lol. When I declined and he saw me that I had a video camera on me and still rolling he retreated pretty quick.
My flight to Toronto via Munich on Friday morning was very early but it was easy to take the subway back to Dejvica station then off to 119 bus to Terminal 2. I left the apartment at 6AM and arrived at the airport around 7AM. My flight was scheduled at 8:55 so ample of time left to get a coffee and something to eat at the airport.
It was sad to leave because I love Praha and always will. Will I come back? ABSOLUTELY!!!! Maybe not next year or the year after but in time my family will be back and this time my daughter can stay up later that way the entire family can take in Prague by night.
Let me know if you have any question or needing tips and I will be glad to answer your questions and provide pointers.
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Sounds like my kinda trip.....we leave for praha on the 19th and are there for 6days....part two of a honeymoon kinda deal. I am thinking of taking one day trip during our stay and must say that (sorry spelling) Terezin?? the old concentration camp town is what has drawn me in the most. What would you reccomend.....plus what part of the town that aren%26#39;t obvious (i.e. old town square + the castle) would say to see. Seeing you are from Canada ....I plan to go with my visa and a scotia bank atm card....it has a %26quot;plus%26quot; + %26quot;interact%26quot; symbol on the back.....I have been told on this forum that I should have no trouble getting money out....first of all is that true and second are their some atm%26#39;s that charge less fees??? what should I be looking at on the czech end....I know what my home bank will charge. Any night spot preferences?
your help would be appreciated
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Calsac,
Congratulations on the marriage. I have not heard and been to the place you mentioned but if that%26#39;s intrigue you then I believe you should do it. After all you spent all the money and energy in planning the trip to Prague so might as well take advantage of situation and visit Praha surrounding. Praha public transportation, be it Metro or Train, are so efficient and affordable that it makes so much sense to use them rather than rely on taxi and shuttle. With that said, if you have a lot of luggage then taxi might be your last resort.
Since this is your first time in Prague, I think you should either buy a travel book and Czech and Prague and read about it and skip the tour. Or if time is limited then believe you can hire a tour to hit all the historical sights. We actually did the first option. In 2006 prior to coming over, we read all about Prague from history to modern day of Prague. When we arrive, we just retrace our steps from the book and see all all the buildings and places that was articulated in the book.
My recommendation, spend a day touring the old and new town. Another day touring the Charles bridge and Kampa island. Another day allocated for Pterin Hill and the Castle. For Petrin Hill, I recommend to do the walk up rather than taking the funicular. each level you walk up you can turn around and appreciate Praha from different perspective. For another day, definitely hit Cesky Krumlov for a day trip. After that spend your last day in the Old Town and absorb the atmosphere of Praha of your last day. Trust me, when you get back you can not stop thinking about Praha for weeks if not months.
Enjoy.
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What an Excellent trip report,thouroughly enjoyed reading it.
Thanks
TORII
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great report jason,good to hear of someone doing things a bit differant ,i also like to get lost in prague..
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a great report .
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It sounds like you had it down to a tee! I would say, though, that if beer costs over 40, rather than 60, I would give it a miss (and even that is a lot), and I am looking forward to seeing your money-changer :)
Great report - thanks.
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I also just want to add that while riding the tram/subway or train, I find the locals are very considerate to handicaps and old age people. In my observation, I find teenagers and young adults willing to give up their seats as soon as they see someone who needed more than them. Furthermore, out of 3 years traveled to Praha I never experienced any rudeness or unhelpful Czech. To prove here is my story. Last Wednesday, during my tram trips around the city I stumbled upon a flee market which is very close to the vtlatska(?) subway station. I did some souvenir shopping and when it was time to leave, my thought was rather than taking the tram back to the subway and subway back Namesti Republiky, is there an alternative route that I can take using the tram to see the Old Town from the other side of the river. As I was waiting at the tram corridor and looking up tram route that potentially still get me to Namesti Republicky without going through the subway route, a Czech female approached me and ask me if I speak English and I said yes. She told me you look like you could use some help by your stare at the tram schedule. I told her my objective and desire to take the tram back to the Old Town rather than the subway and so she said I am going the same direction but will deviate at kosteni blvd. She pointed to Tram #1 then after Vltaska subway I should get off and cross the street and take the tram #26 that eventually ride along the Vlata river and cross the Stefanikuv Most and into Namesti Republicky. To make long story short, I got help from a stranger in Praha without even asking for help so there%26#39;s definitely are good deed doers in Praha. BTW, I am just enjoying a bottle of beer that brought home from Praha while typing this report up.
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It is true - such politeness in trams/metro is instilled from a young age HOWEVER it is not as good as it used to be - even though it is still a million times better than the UK, for example (where I can%26#39;t remember the last time I saw somebody stand up for an elderly person or pregnant woman on a bus), there is still a general debate about the decline in standards. I know it sounds odd, but the standards were very high, and I have even seen a bus driver clip a boy around the ear for being disrespectful. In the UK that would earn him a prison sentence - here he got a round of applause from the other passengers :)
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BTW did you find your wall-mounted astronomical clock?
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GCEK,
I actually did spend 2 of my free days walking around Praha to find the the wall clock that replicate to Big clock but to no avail. I however decided to purchase one of many paintings that artists trying to sell at the look out between the Petrin Hill and the Prague castle. The painting I bought captured pretty much everything I can think of about Prague. It was a perfect substitution for the clock.
BTW, The next time we visit Prague and I know we will. The next visit will be around Christmas or new Year season. Like I said I want to experience Praha in many perspective and if possible different season.
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